Above are pictures of the bear being walked around the park, our tap water which we do our bathing and tooth brushing in and other various things found around the city.
Friday, May 7, 2010
The real world
Above are pictures of the bear being walked around the park, our tap water which we do our bathing and tooth brushing in and other various things found around the city.
Sunday, May 2, 2010
I continue to be surprised
Every week I am here seems to get more and more interesting. And this past week did not disappoint. The snow that once hid the city from us has turned into rain. Thus, the city has turned bright green revealing parks and lawns and squares. It literally happened over night but the trees have started to bud and I hope that by the time we leave everything is in full bloom.
On Wednesday, my roommate and I decided to visit the Hermitage for one last time. The Hermitage, is the Winter Palace once the home of the Romanov royal family. The palace and surrounding buildings were then turned into one of the biggest museums in the world. To look at every thing in the Hermitage for one minute, it would take more than 80 lifetimes to see the entire museum.
As many of you know, I am more than a little obsessed with Russian history, in particular the period of time leading to the revolution in 1917. Being in the Winter Palace seems completely unreal. During the 1920's, the palace was converted to the head of the Transitional Government, and then eventually the Communist party.
While most of the museum is laid out like any other, filled with paintings and sculptures including Da Vinci, Titian and Michelangelo. But parts of the palace are preserved living quarters for the Romanovs. The museum is so enormous I had never been able to find this corner of the museum with these rooms. Thankfully, on Wednesday I happened to stumble upon them. They included the "Gold Drawing room", the library and the nursery. It is hard to believe I have visited The Hermitage for the last time, there is still so much I have not seen.
Earlier that same day, on our way to the museum actually, we were surprised by happenings in downtown. Completely out of nowhere, a siren starts and everyone moves out of the way. Behind the siren, is a military tank. And behind that tank, is another, and soon over 50 military tanks and other cars fashioned with guns bigger than my body have driven by. Literally, straight through the heart of the city. People were taking pictures, but many also thought it was a very good sign to head indoors. We obviously, stood and taped the procession.
We then realized that this upcoming week starts a very big celebration in Russia. May 9th is Victory Day, and this year happens to be the 65th anniversary of the end of the Great Patriotic War (WWII). Since we saw this first procession, the city has been alive with military demonstrations and the streets are adorned with banners and people hand out Russian flags on the street. On the actual day, there is a huge parade downtown, something I cannot wait to experience. The patriotism is contagious and I already bought my own Russian flag to wave at the parade. It had to happen.
Today, we walked around the outskirts of downtown. We stumbled upon a beautiful park filled with sculptures and benches and flower beds. We, however, were not the only ones enjoying the park today. I have seen this kind of thing before but it is always the type of thing that will startle me. A man was walking down the path towards us and with him, on a leash, walked his bear.
Literally, his black bear. Earlier in the year, we saw a man walking a pretty good sized bear but we only caught it from afar and nobody had their cameras. This time, the bear was just a cub and I have decided that I am going to need one before I go home. I know I can bring 5 liters of Vodka back, but I don't know what their policy on bears is. I will post pictures of it a little later.
It is now less than two weeks before I return home. My time here has gone so fast. I know everyone thinks I am completely mental for choosing to Study abroad in Russia. But after being here, I know there is no where else I should have gone, and I would have regretted giving up this chance. Things that were so foreign to me have now worked their way into my reality.
I want to thank everyone who has followed my blog these past few months, it really does mean a lot. Thanks again, I hope you enjoyed it.
Peace out.
On Wednesday, my roommate and I decided to visit the Hermitage for one last time. The Hermitage, is the Winter Palace once the home of the Romanov royal family. The palace and surrounding buildings were then turned into one of the biggest museums in the world. To look at every thing in the Hermitage for one minute, it would take more than 80 lifetimes to see the entire museum.
As many of you know, I am more than a little obsessed with Russian history, in particular the period of time leading to the revolution in 1917. Being in the Winter Palace seems completely unreal. During the 1920's, the palace was converted to the head of the Transitional Government, and then eventually the Communist party.
While most of the museum is laid out like any other, filled with paintings and sculptures including Da Vinci, Titian and Michelangelo. But parts of the palace are preserved living quarters for the Romanovs. The museum is so enormous I had never been able to find this corner of the museum with these rooms. Thankfully, on Wednesday I happened to stumble upon them. They included the "Gold Drawing room", the library and the nursery. It is hard to believe I have visited The Hermitage for the last time, there is still so much I have not seen.
Earlier that same day, on our way to the museum actually, we were surprised by happenings in downtown. Completely out of nowhere, a siren starts and everyone moves out of the way. Behind the siren, is a military tank. And behind that tank, is another, and soon over 50 military tanks and other cars fashioned with guns bigger than my body have driven by. Literally, straight through the heart of the city. People were taking pictures, but many also thought it was a very good sign to head indoors. We obviously, stood and taped the procession.
We then realized that this upcoming week starts a very big celebration in Russia. May 9th is Victory Day, and this year happens to be the 65th anniversary of the end of the Great Patriotic War (WWII). Since we saw this first procession, the city has been alive with military demonstrations and the streets are adorned with banners and people hand out Russian flags on the street. On the actual day, there is a huge parade downtown, something I cannot wait to experience. The patriotism is contagious and I already bought my own Russian flag to wave at the parade. It had to happen.
Today, we walked around the outskirts of downtown. We stumbled upon a beautiful park filled with sculptures and benches and flower beds. We, however, were not the only ones enjoying the park today. I have seen this kind of thing before but it is always the type of thing that will startle me. A man was walking down the path towards us and with him, on a leash, walked his bear.
Literally, his black bear. Earlier in the year, we saw a man walking a pretty good sized bear but we only caught it from afar and nobody had their cameras. This time, the bear was just a cub and I have decided that I am going to need one before I go home. I know I can bring 5 liters of Vodka back, but I don't know what their policy on bears is. I will post pictures of it a little later.
It is now less than two weeks before I return home. My time here has gone so fast. I know everyone thinks I am completely mental for choosing to Study abroad in Russia. But after being here, I know there is no where else I should have gone, and I would have regretted giving up this chance. Things that were so foreign to me have now worked their way into my reality.
I want to thank everyone who has followed my blog these past few months, it really does mean a lot. Thanks again, I hope you enjoyed it.
Peace out.
Monday, April 26, 2010
Sunday, April 25, 2010
Novgorod
Yesterday I guaranteed myself a happy and successful marriage. I am not kidding.
During our tour of Novgorod, our guide pointed out a church in the middle of the city. Traditionally, women who ran three circles around this church were destined for a "happy and successful" marriage. When we approached, a group of young girls, about six years old, were running around the church followed by three more who looked a bit older than myself. So, naturally, when a guarantee like that is thrown my way, I could not resist. Along with the rest of the girls in my group, we ran around the church three times. And the boys, true to form, narrated the run as if it was a race and cheered us all on. I am surprised they didn't put bets on it. Anyway, it's nice to know I have helped my future along a little.
Our visit to Novgorod yesterday was quite eyeopening. The bus ride completely removed us from Petersburg. Inside the city, it is hard to imagine how dismal the state of the country really is. But outside, living conditions plummeted. The main road was lined with half-standing houses and junk yards. The difference between city life and country life is indisputable. It was hard to relate, as we sped past these villages in the safety of our bus.
When we finally arrived in Novgorod, it was not really what I was expecting. First of all, it is one of the largest cities in Western Russia. I was expecting a somewhat smaller version of Tallin, but what I got was s smaller version of St. Petersburg. We saw the Kremlin in Novgorod which houses the oldest church in Russia. It was built during the 11th century and has been added to and remodeled many times since then. Inside the church were original works of art and sculptures. One original piece is that of the virgin Mary. As legend would have it, when Novgorod was attacked by a neighboring city in its early history, one of the attackers' arrows hit the painting just above the eye. The painting then began to weep and Novgorod rallied and won the battle. This has been preserved in a glass case and to this day, one can still see the sight the arrow damaged the eye.
What I found most interesting about the trip however, was the open-air museum just outside the city. During WWII, Novgorod was severely damaged. Novgorod was, and still is famous for wooden handicrafts. This applied to their houses as well. So after the war, the city gathered many original wooden homes of Russian peasants and moved them to this open air exhibit. The houses were absolutely beautiful, as were the numerous churches and other building that made up this quasi-town.
We even happened to stumble upon a wedding taking place in the village and stayed to watch the traditional Russian wedding. When I say this I mean culturally traditional, not Russian Orthodox. I can't say I knew what was going on but it included a whip, a blindfold and and some vodka. You can draw your own conclusions.
I will post a few pictures of the houses. They really are spectacular piece of architecture, especially considering the were built in the 18th century.
Exam season has now come to Russia. I thought I could escape it half way around the world, but no. I really have learned so much about Russia just being here. I thought I knew a sufficient amount before I came, but I was completely mistaken. Living here is the only way to learn the rules of Russia.
For instance, when you have the opportunity to budge someone in line at the grocery store, you do it because everyone behind you will hassel you if you don't. And if you bump into someone, too bad for them. You don't say sorry, they would think you were creepy. And this is probably the only place where when going for a run at three o'clock on a Monday afternoon you are going to have to be weary of running into drunks. It really is a strange, strange world. I just hope I don't shove too many old ladies at home, before I break my Russian habits.
Peace.
During our tour of Novgorod, our guide pointed out a church in the middle of the city. Traditionally, women who ran three circles around this church were destined for a "happy and successful" marriage. When we approached, a group of young girls, about six years old, were running around the church followed by three more who looked a bit older than myself. So, naturally, when a guarantee like that is thrown my way, I could not resist. Along with the rest of the girls in my group, we ran around the church three times. And the boys, true to form, narrated the run as if it was a race and cheered us all on. I am surprised they didn't put bets on it. Anyway, it's nice to know I have helped my future along a little.
Our visit to Novgorod yesterday was quite eyeopening. The bus ride completely removed us from Petersburg. Inside the city, it is hard to imagine how dismal the state of the country really is. But outside, living conditions plummeted. The main road was lined with half-standing houses and junk yards. The difference between city life and country life is indisputable. It was hard to relate, as we sped past these villages in the safety of our bus.
When we finally arrived in Novgorod, it was not really what I was expecting. First of all, it is one of the largest cities in Western Russia. I was expecting a somewhat smaller version of Tallin, but what I got was s smaller version of St. Petersburg. We saw the Kremlin in Novgorod which houses the oldest church in Russia. It was built during the 11th century and has been added to and remodeled many times since then. Inside the church were original works of art and sculptures. One original piece is that of the virgin Mary. As legend would have it, when Novgorod was attacked by a neighboring city in its early history, one of the attackers' arrows hit the painting just above the eye. The painting then began to weep and Novgorod rallied and won the battle. This has been preserved in a glass case and to this day, one can still see the sight the arrow damaged the eye.
What I found most interesting about the trip however, was the open-air museum just outside the city. During WWII, Novgorod was severely damaged. Novgorod was, and still is famous for wooden handicrafts. This applied to their houses as well. So after the war, the city gathered many original wooden homes of Russian peasants and moved them to this open air exhibit. The houses were absolutely beautiful, as were the numerous churches and other building that made up this quasi-town.
We even happened to stumble upon a wedding taking place in the village and stayed to watch the traditional Russian wedding. When I say this I mean culturally traditional, not Russian Orthodox. I can't say I knew what was going on but it included a whip, a blindfold and and some vodka. You can draw your own conclusions.
I will post a few pictures of the houses. They really are spectacular piece of architecture, especially considering the were built in the 18th century.
Exam season has now come to Russia. I thought I could escape it half way around the world, but no. I really have learned so much about Russia just being here. I thought I knew a sufficient amount before I came, but I was completely mistaken. Living here is the only way to learn the rules of Russia.
For instance, when you have the opportunity to budge someone in line at the grocery store, you do it because everyone behind you will hassel you if you don't. And if you bump into someone, too bad for them. You don't say sorry, they would think you were creepy. And this is probably the only place where when going for a run at three o'clock on a Monday afternoon you are going to have to be weary of running into drunks. It really is a strange, strange world. I just hope I don't shove too many old ladies at home, before I break my Russian habits.
Peace.
Tuesday, April 20, 2010
Take me to Finland please
In one of my first classes here, my soviet-spy-edition professor, Igor, said "Russia borders 16 countries, but really, we just want to be alone."
I assumed that the domineering personality that is Russia would have infiltrated most of its surrounding countries. Meaning these unassuming countries of Finland, Estonia, Ukraine and Belarus (to name a few) would have adopted Russian mannerisms and thinking. I thought people would be just as unfriendly and irritated and bossy as they are in St. Petersburg. I was prepared for more of the same, which I honestly have actually grown extremely fond of in Russia.
So my first encounter with a Finnish citizen literally left me speechless. After the train ride I was, as usual, a tad grumpy and dirty and hungry (I was channeling Stephy). Meaning talking to me was really not in your best interest. But I managed to find a place selling bagels in cream cheese, two things I keep in very high regard and as it would happen, not available in the Russian Federation. So I did like I usually do in Russia; I stand an awkward distance away from the cashier to pick out what I want, count out exact change and practice what I am going to say in a pep talk before I finally head up to the register. The blond woman behind the counter saw me standing there and said something in Finnish (I will get to that language in a minute). When I looked utterly lost and helpless, typical I know, she smiled and switched to English. She said "If you don't know what to get, this one is my favorite," and pointed to one of the bagels. She then helped me order a drink and threw in a cookie (probably because I looked like I had just gotten off a train from Russia) and said she hoped I would enjoy my stay. It is astonishing how different this would have played out if this was in Russia.
I would have been yelled at for 1)Not knowing enough Russian 2)Not having the exact number of kopecks 3)Smiling 4)Not knowing the name of the drink 5)Not knowing enough Russian. Going to the grocery store, or really any store for that matter, is absolutely terrifying. I know enough Russian to converse, but after about a syllable and a half they know I an not Russian. Which means they are not going to be nice to me. It has literally gotten to the point where I get up to the register, give her my bills and then hold out a handful of various change and the cashier rummages through my hand to get what she needs. This is a daily occurrence. But I have become rather fond of this system. I really think the cashier lady and I have begun to bond, but that could be totally in my head.
It is amazing how different these countries are when they lay next to one another. Especially considering that Finland and Estonia were both under Russian authority for quite a substantial part of history. Finland gained independence in 1917 during the Russian Civil War and Estonia in 1991. And now, neither country seems to exude the unfriendliness and arrogance so prevalent in Russia. While it may sound like I am complaining about Russia right now, I truly am not. It has become a system and way of life around here. While at first I was surprised by the Russian demeanor, I have now come to embrace it. It is part of what makes the history, and the country itself so mysterious and interesting. It is why I studied here, and every day I am exceedingly glad I took on the challenge of studying abroad in Russia. Undoubtedly, I will come back here one day. It is a place so unlike everywhere else in the world. Some call it European, some call it Asian. But it is neither, it can truly only be called Russian. It is the largest country in the world and has managed to isolate itself in the past two decades. Not many people immigrate to Russia, but not many people leave it either. It is truly a culture that you can only understand if you are raised in it. So while I have spent four months here, everything is still a mystery to me.
So back to Finland. On the train ride home we concluded that it is a country of fairies, because nobody else will eve be able to understand it. Russian has 6 cases: genitive, instrumental, accusative, dative, nominative and prepositional. Finnish has 23 cases. That fact literally makes me want to laugh, because it obviously cannot be real. Finnish sounds so different from any other language I have ever heard, and trying to get around was pretty impossible. Our saving grace was that Swedish is also a national language. Thus it is printed on all street signs underneath the Finnish. Swedish is a lot like Spanish, anyone can recognize enough words to keep themselves from dying.
The other reason we decided Finland is a country of fairies is because of the people. Every person we encountered was exceedingly nice and friendly with a very laid back attitude. It really was just a magical place.
But just when I thought things couldn't get much better, we went to Estonia. We took a walking tour of the historic city of Tallin and I became fascinated with a city I still cannot find on a map. It has the old city feeling with churches leading back to the 13th century but still holds many of the secrets that make Russia so bewildering. For instance, one building has all the bottom windows blocked up. Turns out this was the old KGB headquarters and there is one room inside that nobody is allowed in. When the building was sold and the headquarters in Tallin dissolved, there was a clause saying nobody will ever be allowed in this room. To this day, the room remains unseen by anyone and the building is once again for sale (don't tell my mom, it looks like a fixer-upper). We also saw another room in the center of the city which is also bricked up. Legend has it, the Devil's wedding party took place in this room and the morning after the owner sealed everything up and now from the street you can still see the fake curtains painted on the bricks.
I am always a sucker for a good mystery and both cities, Helsinki and Tallin, kept me satisfied.
In all, our excursion to Finland and Estonia was indeed a nice break from school and Russia. But I am still as thankful as ever I chose to spend my semester here. What would be the point of going abroad if everything was going to be easy? Don't get me wrong, I am really looking forward to a little sunbathing when I get home. Let's be honest, A LOT of sunbathing.
Peace out
I assumed that the domineering personality that is Russia would have infiltrated most of its surrounding countries. Meaning these unassuming countries of Finland, Estonia, Ukraine and Belarus (to name a few) would have adopted Russian mannerisms and thinking. I thought people would be just as unfriendly and irritated and bossy as they are in St. Petersburg. I was prepared for more of the same, which I honestly have actually grown extremely fond of in Russia.
So my first encounter with a Finnish citizen literally left me speechless. After the train ride I was, as usual, a tad grumpy and dirty and hungry (I was channeling Stephy). Meaning talking to me was really not in your best interest. But I managed to find a place selling bagels in cream cheese, two things I keep in very high regard and as it would happen, not available in the Russian Federation. So I did like I usually do in Russia; I stand an awkward distance away from the cashier to pick out what I want, count out exact change and practice what I am going to say in a pep talk before I finally head up to the register. The blond woman behind the counter saw me standing there and said something in Finnish (I will get to that language in a minute). When I looked utterly lost and helpless, typical I know, she smiled and switched to English. She said "If you don't know what to get, this one is my favorite," and pointed to one of the bagels. She then helped me order a drink and threw in a cookie (probably because I looked like I had just gotten off a train from Russia) and said she hoped I would enjoy my stay. It is astonishing how different this would have played out if this was in Russia.
I would have been yelled at for 1)Not knowing enough Russian 2)Not having the exact number of kopecks 3)Smiling 4)Not knowing the name of the drink 5)Not knowing enough Russian. Going to the grocery store, or really any store for that matter, is absolutely terrifying. I know enough Russian to converse, but after about a syllable and a half they know I an not Russian. Which means they are not going to be nice to me. It has literally gotten to the point where I get up to the register, give her my bills and then hold out a handful of various change and the cashier rummages through my hand to get what she needs. This is a daily occurrence. But I have become rather fond of this system. I really think the cashier lady and I have begun to bond, but that could be totally in my head.
It is amazing how different these countries are when they lay next to one another. Especially considering that Finland and Estonia were both under Russian authority for quite a substantial part of history. Finland gained independence in 1917 during the Russian Civil War and Estonia in 1991. And now, neither country seems to exude the unfriendliness and arrogance so prevalent in Russia. While it may sound like I am complaining about Russia right now, I truly am not. It has become a system and way of life around here. While at first I was surprised by the Russian demeanor, I have now come to embrace it. It is part of what makes the history, and the country itself so mysterious and interesting. It is why I studied here, and every day I am exceedingly glad I took on the challenge of studying abroad in Russia. Undoubtedly, I will come back here one day. It is a place so unlike everywhere else in the world. Some call it European, some call it Asian. But it is neither, it can truly only be called Russian. It is the largest country in the world and has managed to isolate itself in the past two decades. Not many people immigrate to Russia, but not many people leave it either. It is truly a culture that you can only understand if you are raised in it. So while I have spent four months here, everything is still a mystery to me.
So back to Finland. On the train ride home we concluded that it is a country of fairies, because nobody else will eve be able to understand it. Russian has 6 cases: genitive, instrumental, accusative, dative, nominative and prepositional. Finnish has 23 cases. That fact literally makes me want to laugh, because it obviously cannot be real. Finnish sounds so different from any other language I have ever heard, and trying to get around was pretty impossible. Our saving grace was that Swedish is also a national language. Thus it is printed on all street signs underneath the Finnish. Swedish is a lot like Spanish, anyone can recognize enough words to keep themselves from dying.
The other reason we decided Finland is a country of fairies is because of the people. Every person we encountered was exceedingly nice and friendly with a very laid back attitude. It really was just a magical place.
But just when I thought things couldn't get much better, we went to Estonia. We took a walking tour of the historic city of Tallin and I became fascinated with a city I still cannot find on a map. It has the old city feeling with churches leading back to the 13th century but still holds many of the secrets that make Russia so bewildering. For instance, one building has all the bottom windows blocked up. Turns out this was the old KGB headquarters and there is one room inside that nobody is allowed in. When the building was sold and the headquarters in Tallin dissolved, there was a clause saying nobody will ever be allowed in this room. To this day, the room remains unseen by anyone and the building is once again for sale (don't tell my mom, it looks like a fixer-upper). We also saw another room in the center of the city which is also bricked up. Legend has it, the Devil's wedding party took place in this room and the morning after the owner sealed everything up and now from the street you can still see the fake curtains painted on the bricks.
I am always a sucker for a good mystery and both cities, Helsinki and Tallin, kept me satisfied.
In all, our excursion to Finland and Estonia was indeed a nice break from school and Russia. But I am still as thankful as ever I chose to spend my semester here. What would be the point of going abroad if everything was going to be easy? Don't get me wrong, I am really looking forward to a little sunbathing when I get home. Let's be honest, A LOT of sunbathing.
Peace out
Sunday, April 11, 2010
Venice of the North
On May 27, 1703, Peter the Great founded St. Petersburg as the capital of Russia. Since its founding, the city has been seen as the most westernized city of Russia and rightfully dubbed "Venice of the North."
Upon arriving in St. Petersburg, I was unaware of the size of the city. As of now it is the third largest city in Europe following Moscow and London. But after living here for three months now I believe it is undoubtedly true. Every metro station leads to a new corner of the city with its own vibe and aura. And every time you emerge from the darkness of the metro, a new city awaits.
This feeling of continuiously rediscovering the city stems from the weather. It seems that the city truly does come alive when the sun comes out and what was a frigid and stereotypical Russian metropolis is now a European hub of culture and beauty. Thousands of people have emerged from their Russian hibernation to strut on the city streets.
This may be surprising but St. Petersburg has a definite fashion sense that I can rarely achieve on a good day. And Russian women can do absolutely anything in heels for any amount of time. The standard Russian woman is tall with long straight hair. She wears tall stiletto boots and tight dark jeans with a cropped leather jacket. Each and every one of them looks more put together than I could ever dream. I am choosing to blame my lack of trendiness on the small amount of clothing I could get in my suitcase.
Speaking of, this Thursday we leave for Finland. And Helsinki, just happens to be home to one of the first ever H&M stores. Rumor has it the store could cover a square city block and is three stories high. I will report back with my findings.
Along with the people, the true treasures of the city are beginning to come out of hibernation. St. Petersburg is commonly know as the "Venice of the North." This name comes from the hundreds of canals that stream throughout the city. Upon arriving here, these canals merely looked like streets winding in and out of the center. Now however, these waterways have melted and have added remarkable charm to St. Petersburg.
Overall, I wish I had come to St. Petersburg when the weather was warm and the city was bustling. I have experienced more of the people, culture and the city itself in the past few weeks of warm weather. And every day I spend getting lost in the city, the more I feel myself becoming attached.
Upon arriving in St. Petersburg, I was unaware of the size of the city. As of now it is the third largest city in Europe following Moscow and London. But after living here for three months now I believe it is undoubtedly true. Every metro station leads to a new corner of the city with its own vibe and aura. And every time you emerge from the darkness of the metro, a new city awaits.
This feeling of continuiously rediscovering the city stems from the weather. It seems that the city truly does come alive when the sun comes out and what was a frigid and stereotypical Russian metropolis is now a European hub of culture and beauty. Thousands of people have emerged from their Russian hibernation to strut on the city streets.
This may be surprising but St. Petersburg has a definite fashion sense that I can rarely achieve on a good day. And Russian women can do absolutely anything in heels for any amount of time. The standard Russian woman is tall with long straight hair. She wears tall stiletto boots and tight dark jeans with a cropped leather jacket. Each and every one of them looks more put together than I could ever dream. I am choosing to blame my lack of trendiness on the small amount of clothing I could get in my suitcase.
Speaking of, this Thursday we leave for Finland. And Helsinki, just happens to be home to one of the first ever H&M stores. Rumor has it the store could cover a square city block and is three stories high. I will report back with my findings.
Along with the people, the true treasures of the city are beginning to come out of hibernation. St. Petersburg is commonly know as the "Venice of the North." This name comes from the hundreds of canals that stream throughout the city. Upon arriving here, these canals merely looked like streets winding in and out of the center. Now however, these waterways have melted and have added remarkable charm to St. Petersburg.
Overall, I wish I had come to St. Petersburg when the weather was warm and the city was bustling. I have experienced more of the people, culture and the city itself in the past few weeks of warm weather. And every day I spend getting lost in the city, the more I feel myself becoming attached.
Sunday, April 4, 2010
A Brand New City
Like I said in my last post, St. Petersburg is beginning to thaw. And it seems to have happened overnight. Snow banks have disappeared revealing sidewalks, garden plots and even cars. One of my teachers said "In St. Petersburg, if you see a small snow pile, it is a car. If you see a bigger one, it is a house." And we have definitely witnessed cars emerging from the snow. Still waiting on the house however.
Yesterday was one of the best days I have spent in the city. Our group met downtown and walked to Yusupov's Palace. This palace is located in the center of the city and pretty much just sneaks up on you. From the outside, there is nothing particularly impressive about the building. The inside however, proved to be my favorite thing I have seen in this city.
The Yusupov family bought the house in 1830 and continued to live there until the revolution, five generations lived there. They were an extremely wealthy, aristocratic Russian family. Their house was absolutely beautiful. But also, it was the first palace we have visited where you could actually imagine someone living there. In many of the palaces they seem fake. This house however, was made for a family and you could tell.
However, the house gains most of its fame because this is the location of Rasputin's murder. It is said that the youngest Yusupov, Felix, along with four comrades, planned to poison Rasputin. However, as Felix's memoir states, the poison never took effect and he was forced to shoot Rasputin. Only this too did not kill him. Instead he fought his way out of the palace where he was once again shot numerous times. They then threw his body off a bridge onto the Neva river.
We actually stood in the same room where this all happened and walked the same staircases. It truly was a bizarre and eerie experience. Just another example of Russia's mysterious and perplexing history.
I assume everyone has heard about the bombings in Moscow last week. The situation with Chechnya remains hostile, as it has been for a number of years. But the militsia have taken extra precautions and are now vigilantly stalking every metro stop. It is a small sense of security, but at least it is something. But we are all alert all the time. And believe me, our directors have been enforcing this with us since day 1.
And if it is any consolation, next Thursday, April 15, we leave for Finland. I am very excited about leaving the country for a few days, it will be nice to get away from Russian cuisine for awhile. I can only handle so many potatoes. However, I have discovered Sherma. This delicious wrap of mystery meat, mystery sauce and cabbage can be found on every street corner and looks legit about 50% of the time. But it always tastes good.
I know everybody says not to eat street food, but really, where is the fun in that? It's almost a game. How many Sherma can I eat before I get food poisoning? Well, I already lost, so hopefully I am in the clear for the rest of the semester and can gorge myself on Sherma at my leisure.
Happy Easter Everyone! Mom, I am warning you, do not eat the ears off my bunny.
Yesterday was one of the best days I have spent in the city. Our group met downtown and walked to Yusupov's Palace. This palace is located in the center of the city and pretty much just sneaks up on you. From the outside, there is nothing particularly impressive about the building. The inside however, proved to be my favorite thing I have seen in this city.
The Yusupov family bought the house in 1830 and continued to live there until the revolution, five generations lived there. They were an extremely wealthy, aristocratic Russian family. Their house was absolutely beautiful. But also, it was the first palace we have visited where you could actually imagine someone living there. In many of the palaces they seem fake. This house however, was made for a family and you could tell.
However, the house gains most of its fame because this is the location of Rasputin's murder. It is said that the youngest Yusupov, Felix, along with four comrades, planned to poison Rasputin. However, as Felix's memoir states, the poison never took effect and he was forced to shoot Rasputin. Only this too did not kill him. Instead he fought his way out of the palace where he was once again shot numerous times. They then threw his body off a bridge onto the Neva river.
We actually stood in the same room where this all happened and walked the same staircases. It truly was a bizarre and eerie experience. Just another example of Russia's mysterious and perplexing history.
I assume everyone has heard about the bombings in Moscow last week. The situation with Chechnya remains hostile, as it has been for a number of years. But the militsia have taken extra precautions and are now vigilantly stalking every metro stop. It is a small sense of security, but at least it is something. But we are all alert all the time. And believe me, our directors have been enforcing this with us since day 1.
And if it is any consolation, next Thursday, April 15, we leave for Finland. I am very excited about leaving the country for a few days, it will be nice to get away from Russian cuisine for awhile. I can only handle so many potatoes. However, I have discovered Sherma. This delicious wrap of mystery meat, mystery sauce and cabbage can be found on every street corner and looks legit about 50% of the time. But it always tastes good.
I know everybody says not to eat street food, but really, where is the fun in that? It's almost a game. How many Sherma can I eat before I get food poisoning? Well, I already lost, so hopefully I am in the clear for the rest of the semester and can gorge myself on Sherma at my leisure.
Happy Easter Everyone! Mom, I am warning you, do not eat the ears off my bunny.
Saturday, March 27, 2010
Spring finally showed up
So I hear back in Minnesota, we are having record breaking highs. Well, here in Russia we were having record breaking lows. Of course. But the past few days have begun to thaw the ice palace that is St. Petersburg and I can officially say that Spring has made its way to Russia. And it is about time.
I actually had to go out and buy a pair of sunglasses, something I never thought would happen in a country that has less that 30 sunny days a year. But the weather has been gorgeous. My roommate and I decided that every day the temperature reaches 4 degrees we are going for a run. So far it has been pretty entertaining, dodging babushkas, black ice and Militsia. And I have come to the realization that if I don't fall on my backside at least once, it is a pretty good day.
This new bout of gorgeous weather has made us all more excited to explore the city. Earlier, we could stand for maybe a 15 minute walk through the ice water that drowns St. Petersburg. Now, being outside is a pleasure. Yesterday, a group of us ventured to Kunstkamera, the museum started by Peter the Great as a personal collection. This museum is know for the collection of "natural and human curiosities and rarities."
Needless to say, this was by far the most disturbing thing I have ever seen. I really cannot even describe what was kept in this museum. If you really want to see it, you can google it, but I would rather not disgust everyone reading this. But on our way to the museum we walked along the impressive banks of the Neva River, one of the most beautiful sights in the city if you ask me.
We are more than halfway through our Russian studies and I feel as though I have just been reintroduced to the city. We have so little time left I already know I will miss Russia. In three weeks we are going to spend a long weekend in Finland and Estonia. People tell us that for countries that are merely separated by a small gulf, they could not be any more different.
And after our trip to Finland, we have a mere three weeks left. Everything is speeding by and we are trying to take advantage of every museum and historical site the city has to offer.
One main realization I have come to is that I much tougher than I previously believed. I officially lived through the worst winter in St. Petersburg in over 100 years. Not even the communists had to put up with this crap.
I actually had to go out and buy a pair of sunglasses, something I never thought would happen in a country that has less that 30 sunny days a year. But the weather has been gorgeous. My roommate and I decided that every day the temperature reaches 4 degrees we are going for a run. So far it has been pretty entertaining, dodging babushkas, black ice and Militsia. And I have come to the realization that if I don't fall on my backside at least once, it is a pretty good day.
This new bout of gorgeous weather has made us all more excited to explore the city. Earlier, we could stand for maybe a 15 minute walk through the ice water that drowns St. Petersburg. Now, being outside is a pleasure. Yesterday, a group of us ventured to Kunstkamera, the museum started by Peter the Great as a personal collection. This museum is know for the collection of "natural and human curiosities and rarities."
Needless to say, this was by far the most disturbing thing I have ever seen. I really cannot even describe what was kept in this museum. If you really want to see it, you can google it, but I would rather not disgust everyone reading this. But on our way to the museum we walked along the impressive banks of the Neva River, one of the most beautiful sights in the city if you ask me.
We are more than halfway through our Russian studies and I feel as though I have just been reintroduced to the city. We have so little time left I already know I will miss Russia. In three weeks we are going to spend a long weekend in Finland and Estonia. People tell us that for countries that are merely separated by a small gulf, they could not be any more different.
And after our trip to Finland, we have a mere three weeks left. Everything is speeding by and we are trying to take advantage of every museum and historical site the city has to offer.
One main realization I have come to is that I much tougher than I previously believed. I officially lived through the worst winter in St. Petersburg in over 100 years. Not even the communists had to put up with this crap.
Saturday, March 20, 2010
Love in Moscow
I apologize to my 8 devoted readers that it has been over a week. We had our spring break these past few days. My roommate, Allison, and I decided to spend that week frolicking in Moscow. From recounts of students that had been there before, I was prepared for a gray, cold and unfriendly city. What we found was really quite different.
From the first day, I was impressed by the city. It managed to have the big city feel of New York, yet retain the history that captivates thousands of tourists every year. Our first stop, naturally, was Red Square. It truly is a wonderful sight. The square is surrounded by the Kremlin, Saint Basil's, Gum Department Store, and the State History Museum. All 4 buildings I spent quite a bit of time exploring. We headed back to the square at least once a day, just wandering around and falling in love once again.
Another sight on Red Square is Lenin's tomb. This was more bizarre than anything else. To see the man himself, who is preserved in a glass case, you much enter the building and maneuver these dark hallways until you see his face, literally glowing. You are not allowed to stand and look at him, but need to keep moving, shuffling slowly to let the eerie vision finally sink in. It is by far, the oddest thing I have ever seen. However, I can say, that I came face to face with the legend himself.
We stayed in a hostel about 20 minutes from Red Square that ended up being the perfect location. The two of us were however, sleeping in a bunk house with 8 other guys. They ended up being great travel company, even though they smelled pretty awful.
Before leaving for Moscow, many of the students who had already been warned us that we would not be impressed. After being there, they are completely wrong. I am in love with Moscow.
Everything about the city was perfect and without a doubt, I will visit it again. I could even see myself living there for some time, but don't worry mom, not forever. Behind London and Tokyo, Moscow is the 3rd most expensive city in the world. It is hard to imagine that less than 20 years ago, this was the hub of Communism.
As of right now, there are two Starbucks in Russia. They both happen to be in Moscow and both happen to be on the same street. We ventured into one, only to find coffee mugs in the shape of Matrushka dolls. Quite entertaining.
Before getting to Moscow I was worried about how Allison and I would do, venturing around the city on our own. That, and the fact that neither of us is very good at speaking Russian. Not good at all actually. But now, having traveled in Moscow by train, bus and metro, we can say we dominated their public transportation. It almost felt like the city wanted us to like it. Getting around was effortless. And we had the added bonus of gazing at the amazingly beautiful metro stations built by Stalin during the communist area. Just google "Moscow Metro" to see a few pictures.
The only hitch and probably the funniest point on our trip happened on our 8 hour train journey home. We decided to forgo our nice, 2nd class seats for the 3rd class cheap tickets. We walked into our car on the train to find about 50 plus beds lined up. Allison and I were both assigned top bunks which should really not have happened. I stuck out the end about 6 inches. But the real difficulty came when it was time to get into bed. Because of the layout of the beds and my general luck, I fell off my bed when I first attempted to get in. That was pretty embarrassing. The only thing more embarrassing was when I tried it again, the exact same thing happened.I was crying because I was laughing so hard but also because I was going to have nowhere to sleep for the next eight hours if I could not get into bed. Eventually, I managed to contort my body and finagle my way into bed. At this point I decided that for the next eight hours, I was not going to move. I spooned my backpack the entire eight hours on this dirty Russian mattress with no sheets. Needless to say, the shower I took when I got home was needed.
But overall, I am obsessed with Moscow. I enjoyed every moment I spent there and I know that one day, I will be back. It is a city with so much to offer and seeping in history that to this day effects the lives of each individual in Russia.
From the first day, I was impressed by the city. It managed to have the big city feel of New York, yet retain the history that captivates thousands of tourists every year. Our first stop, naturally, was Red Square. It truly is a wonderful sight. The square is surrounded by the Kremlin, Saint Basil's, Gum Department Store, and the State History Museum. All 4 buildings I spent quite a bit of time exploring. We headed back to the square at least once a day, just wandering around and falling in love once again.
Another sight on Red Square is Lenin's tomb. This was more bizarre than anything else. To see the man himself, who is preserved in a glass case, you much enter the building and maneuver these dark hallways until you see his face, literally glowing. You are not allowed to stand and look at him, but need to keep moving, shuffling slowly to let the eerie vision finally sink in. It is by far, the oddest thing I have ever seen. However, I can say, that I came face to face with the legend himself.
We stayed in a hostel about 20 minutes from Red Square that ended up being the perfect location. The two of us were however, sleeping in a bunk house with 8 other guys. They ended up being great travel company, even though they smelled pretty awful.
Before leaving for Moscow, many of the students who had already been warned us that we would not be impressed. After being there, they are completely wrong. I am in love with Moscow.
Everything about the city was perfect and without a doubt, I will visit it again. I could even see myself living there for some time, but don't worry mom, not forever. Behind London and Tokyo, Moscow is the 3rd most expensive city in the world. It is hard to imagine that less than 20 years ago, this was the hub of Communism.
As of right now, there are two Starbucks in Russia. They both happen to be in Moscow and both happen to be on the same street. We ventured into one, only to find coffee mugs in the shape of Matrushka dolls. Quite entertaining.
Before getting to Moscow I was worried about how Allison and I would do, venturing around the city on our own. That, and the fact that neither of us is very good at speaking Russian. Not good at all actually. But now, having traveled in Moscow by train, bus and metro, we can say we dominated their public transportation. It almost felt like the city wanted us to like it. Getting around was effortless. And we had the added bonus of gazing at the amazingly beautiful metro stations built by Stalin during the communist area. Just google "Moscow Metro" to see a few pictures.
The only hitch and probably the funniest point on our trip happened on our 8 hour train journey home. We decided to forgo our nice, 2nd class seats for the 3rd class cheap tickets. We walked into our car on the train to find about 50 plus beds lined up. Allison and I were both assigned top bunks which should really not have happened. I stuck out the end about 6 inches. But the real difficulty came when it was time to get into bed. Because of the layout of the beds and my general luck, I fell off my bed when I first attempted to get in. That was pretty embarrassing. The only thing more embarrassing was when I tried it again, the exact same thing happened.I was crying because I was laughing so hard but also because I was going to have nowhere to sleep for the next eight hours if I could not get into bed. Eventually, I managed to contort my body and finagle my way into bed. At this point I decided that for the next eight hours, I was not going to move. I spooned my backpack the entire eight hours on this dirty Russian mattress with no sheets. Needless to say, the shower I took when I got home was needed.
But overall, I am obsessed with Moscow. I enjoyed every moment I spent there and I know that one day, I will be back. It is a city with so much to offer and seeping in history that to this day effects the lives of each individual in Russia.
Monday, March 8, 2010
Women's Day
Today, March 8, is Women's Day. The joke surrounding this day is that women get one day out of the year, while men get 364. We woke up this morning and the boys on the floor had given each girl a rose. Pretty sweet of them. And while the joke may seem to be a bit of an exaggeration, I really do not think it is.
When my Russian professor asked what I was studying in the states, I replied "international business." She looked confused and explained that there is no word for "business woman" in Russian. They do not exist. While more and more women join the workforce here, hopefully much of this will change. Right now, St. Petersburg has made an enormous step and elected a woman Mayor, but there is still a vivid gap between the rights of men and the rights of women.
Onto a lighter subject, I attended a hockey game featuring St. Petersburg's professional team, CKA, and some relatively unknown town from Siberia. The game was a blast and CKA is considered the best hockey team in Russia at the moment. They even had the riot police in the stands surrounding the opposing team's fans.
We also had an excursion to Pavlovsk, the palace of Paul I. The palace itself is classically beautiful, very simple and elegant. But the amazing part of the estate is the garden. An enormous garden stands behind the palace, covering many many acres. The garden has many treasures hidden in the garden, you might be walking an suprisingly come across a clearing containing numerous statues, randomly spewed about. The more you explore the more small buildings, temples and statues you find all hidden in the woods. The students who saw the garden last semester (when it was not covered in snow) say that it was much more beautiful when it was green. I can imagine. Don;t get me wrong, the snow is beautiful, but this is a garden and supposed to be green. I am pretty excited for everything to not be covered in snow.
It is actually warming up a bit. We have even seen a bit of green grass poking through the snow. When I saw that, it really was the highlight of my day. We decided to go back to Pavlovsk on one of our last days here. I would love to see it in the spring.
Next week is already semester break, everything goes by so fast here. We will be heading to Moscow with the program for 3 days and after that my roommate and I will be spending the remainder of the week in the city on our own. I am not only excited to travel around the city on our own, but it will also be a great test of our Russian.
When my Russian professor asked what I was studying in the states, I replied "international business." She looked confused and explained that there is no word for "business woman" in Russian. They do not exist. While more and more women join the workforce here, hopefully much of this will change. Right now, St. Petersburg has made an enormous step and elected a woman Mayor, but there is still a vivid gap between the rights of men and the rights of women.
Onto a lighter subject, I attended a hockey game featuring St. Petersburg's professional team, CKA, and some relatively unknown town from Siberia. The game was a blast and CKA is considered the best hockey team in Russia at the moment. They even had the riot police in the stands surrounding the opposing team's fans.
We also had an excursion to Pavlovsk, the palace of Paul I. The palace itself is classically beautiful, very simple and elegant. But the amazing part of the estate is the garden. An enormous garden stands behind the palace, covering many many acres. The garden has many treasures hidden in the garden, you might be walking an suprisingly come across a clearing containing numerous statues, randomly spewed about. The more you explore the more small buildings, temples and statues you find all hidden in the woods. The students who saw the garden last semester (when it was not covered in snow) say that it was much more beautiful when it was green. I can imagine. Don;t get me wrong, the snow is beautiful, but this is a garden and supposed to be green. I am pretty excited for everything to not be covered in snow.
It is actually warming up a bit. We have even seen a bit of green grass poking through the snow. When I saw that, it really was the highlight of my day. We decided to go back to Pavlovsk on one of our last days here. I would love to see it in the spring.
Next week is already semester break, everything goes by so fast here. We will be heading to Moscow with the program for 3 days and after that my roommate and I will be spending the remainder of the week in the city on our own. I am not only excited to travel around the city on our own, but it will also be a great test of our Russian.
Sunday, February 28, 2010
As luck would have it, St. Petersburg has not gotten this much snow in over 100 years. To put that in perspective the Romanov family was still in power at that time, lets just say it has been awhile. Not that I am complaining, if I came to Russia and there was no snow I would be rather disappointed. But recently the weather has started to brighten up and all that snow is beginning to melt. Literally muddles up to my knees. There could be flood warning out, not that I would ever know it.
It is so bad that downtown, hopping from the sidewalk onto the street trying to cross is a nightmare. The city has done their best, setting out pieces of styrofoam to act as stepping stones through the slush trenches. Sorry about the sarcasm.
I am really looking forward to spring. If a city can be this beautiful when covered in snow and mud, I can't imagine how majestic it will look in the spring. They city has been dubbed "the Venice of the north," due to the hundreds of canals that run through the city. As of now, the small rivers are frozen but hopefully soon they will begin to melt. Even frozen however, they are a unique addition to the city.
We have become very comfortable in certain parts of town thus far into the semester. Nevsky Prospect, the main street pictured earlier has become a main hub for all of us students. On the corner right outside the metro is Дом книги, The house of Books, that is a weekly stop. The three story book store has everything one could imagine. I have been stocking up on Russian books in hopes of one day being able to read Tolstoy in his native tongue. We have been just wandering around the city more now that the weather has improved. It really is a vast city with so much to see.
Yesterday was our weekly cultural excursion. Today was focused on the siege of Leningrad from 1941-1944. During this time, the Nazis invaded the city and cut Leningrad from any land connections. An estimated 1.5 million people died during the siege. Majority caused by famine. The amount of bread given to a civilian daily was 125 grams. Most of this was made with sawdust, glue and other inedible ingredients. The civilians were then plagued by destroyed homes, dirty water and disease. This siege in history is the biggest single loss to a city in the modern world.
Many monuments are dedicated to those who gave their lives fighting for Russia and the civilians who suffered. The first we visited was the Piskariovskoye Memorial Cemetery. There is an eternal flame lit at the entrance and along the right are buried, in unmarked graves, civilians. And on the left are soldiers and sailors. The statue in the middle dubbed "Mother Motherland" symbolizes Peace. The entire experience was extremely moving. They have opera music playing at all times and the places made chills run up my spine. It captured so much tragic history.
The second monument is called Victory Square. In the middle of the square is a monument with various statues, symbolizing the soldiers, volunteers and civilians who gave their lives to their country. Underneath the square is the museum. This was probably the most beautiful museum I have ever seen. The wall were covered in mosaics dedicated on one side to the fall to the Nazis and victory day on the other. Because the museum is underground there are no windows. They light the museum with 900 candles, symbolizing the 900 days and nights they were occupied. The entire museum was lit by these candles. This was by far the most exquisite place I have visited in Russia.
It is so bad that downtown, hopping from the sidewalk onto the street trying to cross is a nightmare. The city has done their best, setting out pieces of styrofoam to act as stepping stones through the slush trenches. Sorry about the sarcasm.
I am really looking forward to spring. If a city can be this beautiful when covered in snow and mud, I can't imagine how majestic it will look in the spring. They city has been dubbed "the Venice of the north," due to the hundreds of canals that run through the city. As of now, the small rivers are frozen but hopefully soon they will begin to melt. Even frozen however, they are a unique addition to the city.
We have become very comfortable in certain parts of town thus far into the semester. Nevsky Prospect, the main street pictured earlier has become a main hub for all of us students. On the corner right outside the metro is Дом книги, The house of Books, that is a weekly stop. The three story book store has everything one could imagine. I have been stocking up on Russian books in hopes of one day being able to read Tolstoy in his native tongue. We have been just wandering around the city more now that the weather has improved. It really is a vast city with so much to see.
Yesterday was our weekly cultural excursion. Today was focused on the siege of Leningrad from 1941-1944. During this time, the Nazis invaded the city and cut Leningrad from any land connections. An estimated 1.5 million people died during the siege. Majority caused by famine. The amount of bread given to a civilian daily was 125 grams. Most of this was made with sawdust, glue and other inedible ingredients. The civilians were then plagued by destroyed homes, dirty water and disease. This siege in history is the biggest single loss to a city in the modern world.
Many monuments are dedicated to those who gave their lives fighting for Russia and the civilians who suffered. The first we visited was the Piskariovskoye Memorial Cemetery. There is an eternal flame lit at the entrance and along the right are buried, in unmarked graves, civilians. And on the left are soldiers and sailors. The statue in the middle dubbed "Mother Motherland" symbolizes Peace. The entire experience was extremely moving. They have opera music playing at all times and the places made chills run up my spine. It captured so much tragic history.
The second monument is called Victory Square. In the middle of the square is a monument with various statues, symbolizing the soldiers, volunteers and civilians who gave their lives to their country. Underneath the square is the museum. This was probably the most beautiful museum I have ever seen. The wall were covered in mosaics dedicated on one side to the fall to the Nazis and victory day on the other. Because the museum is underground there are no windows. They light the museum with 900 candles, symbolizing the 900 days and nights they were occupied. The entire museum was lit by these candles. This was by far the most exquisite place I have visited in Russia.
Tuesday, February 23, 2010
Monday, February 22, 2010
So I understand everyone back home is enjoying some nice, dare I say warm weather over the past few days. Well, I cannot relate to you. The weather is already bad and just getting worse. We have had temperatures down to -25 degrees F. So needless to say our trips outdoors have been limited to basically supply ourselves with the essentials; sushi and chocolate.
But the city is still beautiful with all of the snow. Right now there is a blizzard outside, and whether it be Russian or Minnesotan, I still love the snow. Probably a good thing considering where I chose to spend the semester.
On Saturday we visited the Museum of Political History. The museum is in what used to be the private mansion of Матильда Кшесинская (Matilda Kshesinskaya), a very famous Russian ballerina who became the mistress and constant distraction of Nicholas II. The mansion later became central location for Lenin's большевики (bolshevik) party.
I was really hoping for more out of Defender's Day, maybe a parade of some sort. But it is really just an excuse for old Russian men to get obnoxiously drunk in public and ride the metro. After realizing this fact we decided to celebrate Defender's Day with some comfort food. After all it is defending our sanity. Thus, I ate my first Russian Big Mac. It is the first real protein I have had since the extremely rancid chicken fiasco. Getting good meat here is a problem.
For example, the boys who live next door set out to make us some stew one night and went to the store to get meat. Long story short they came back with neck meat. We don't know how old it was or really from what type of animal it was, but it was neck meat. The butcher just pointed to his neck when describing it and, naturally, not a single one of them could understand him. And because of the huge butcher knife in his hand, the boys quickly realized they did not want to say no. So we had neck meat stew.
Everyone keeps asking about the most exciting thing I have done. Well, its hard to pinpoint it because just being here is exciting. In a completely mysterious, I have absolutely no idea what is going on right now kind of way. Every trip outside is an adventure. We get lost, pick-pocketed and hassled but every part of it is a good time. Completely exhausting, but always exciting.
But the city is still beautiful with all of the snow. Right now there is a blizzard outside, and whether it be Russian or Minnesotan, I still love the snow. Probably a good thing considering where I chose to spend the semester.
On Saturday we visited the Museum of Political History. The museum is in what used to be the private mansion of Матильда Кшесинская (Matilda Kshesinskaya), a very famous Russian ballerina who became the mistress and constant distraction of Nicholas II. The mansion later became central location for Lenin's большевики (bolshevik) party.
I was really hoping for more out of Defender's Day, maybe a parade of some sort. But it is really just an excuse for old Russian men to get obnoxiously drunk in public and ride the metro. After realizing this fact we decided to celebrate Defender's Day with some comfort food. After all it is defending our sanity. Thus, I ate my first Russian Big Mac. It is the first real protein I have had since the extremely rancid chicken fiasco. Getting good meat here is a problem.
For example, the boys who live next door set out to make us some stew one night and went to the store to get meat. Long story short they came back with neck meat. We don't know how old it was or really from what type of animal it was, but it was neck meat. The butcher just pointed to his neck when describing it and, naturally, not a single one of them could understand him. And because of the huge butcher knife in his hand, the boys quickly realized they did not want to say no. So we had neck meat stew.
Everyone keeps asking about the most exciting thing I have done. Well, its hard to pinpoint it because just being here is exciting. In a completely mysterious, I have absolutely no idea what is going on right now kind of way. Every trip outside is an adventure. We get lost, pick-pocketed and hassled but every part of it is a good time. Completely exhausting, but always exciting.
Friday, February 19, 2010
Today is the start of our 5 day weekend. We never have classes on Fridays and Monday is Defender of the Fatherland Day. It is very similar to veterans day and commemorates the first mass draft into the Red Army in 1918. So school is canceled both Monday and Tuesday, for recovery purposes.
So far into my semester my most amazing sight was without a doubt Catherine's Palace in Pushkin. The palace is a masterpiece itself but is also home to the Amber Room. This room is completely decorated in Amber, everything from the walls to the pieces of furniture. The room now is a recreation of the original. The first Amber Room is actually quite a mystery. It was taken down after the German invasion and supposedly stored away. However, the pieces of the room were never seen again. For years people have searched for the original Amber Room but they are still missing after being taken by the Germans. Typical.
We toured as much of the palace as we could, only to realize that about 5/6 of the palace was not open to us. Most of it is under reconstruction from being destroyed years ago.
This past weekend was Масленица, or butter week. It celebrates the end of the cold winter. Well, I think they jumped the gun a bit because right now it is -10 F. The Масленица festival was held on the Gulf of Finland. And when I say on the Gulf of Finland, its frozen, so it was literally on the Gulf of Finland. It was an absolutely beautiful sight. Nearly every part of my body was solid ice after standing outside for more than 5 hours but the scenery was well worth it.
As always, the city looks like a snowy fantasy land. It snowed quite a bit earlier in the week and yesterday we could actually see the sun. Not that I need it after all the vitamin D pills I have been throwing back.
All in all, I couldn't imagine studying abroad anywhere else, this place is perfect.
Thursday, February 18, 2010
A brief game of catch-up
As of today I have been outside the United States for three full weeks. And while being cut off from reality while in Russia seemed ideal before I left, I have realized that my mother, along with many others, needs some verification that I am still alive. Thus I am starting this blog to put her mind at ease.
So I will start with just a bit of background. I am studying in St. Petersburg, Russia with a program called The American Institute for Foreign Study (which I am still concerned is involved in the Russian slave trade). The program began with a two day layover in London where we were introduced to others in our program and toured around London. We then flew to St. Petersburg on January 31st.
I am studying at St. Petersburg Polytechnic University, a renowned university for engineering. Precisely the reason I am taking all history classes. I have roughly 3 full hours of Russian daily while my two history courses, one focusing on the communist era and the other on the contemporary life and politics, meet only once a week. All of my professors are absolutely wonderful; I will just have to resist their attempts to convert me to a commi.
The first few weeks of this trip have gone by extremely fast. We have seen many of the main tourist attractions. These include the Hermitage, Catherine’s Palace in Pushkin, the Church on Spilled Blood and of course, Rasputin’s penis.
Everything I have seen has been absolutely fascinating. Russian history has always enthralled me and now I am just feeding my addiction. Every place in the city is dripping with history, to the point that I feel I have not even scratched the surface.
On the other hand, between moments of complete joy are those moments when I ask myself “how the hell did I end up here?” which are really a daily occurrence. For example today, we had to pile all of our stuff onto our beds so our rooms could be fumigated for cockroaches. I don’t handle cockroaches. Or the fact that my roommates and I are unable to open our freezer door solely because there is a container of rotten, odiferous chicken inside that we have no idea what to do with, so it is literally just chillin’ in the freezer.
Don’t get me wrong, I am loving every single moment here. And to quote one of my professors, “you need to lookout, Russia is very addicting.” I know exactly what she means.
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