Yesterday I guaranteed myself a happy and successful marriage. I am not kidding.
During our tour of Novgorod, our guide pointed out a church in the middle of the city. Traditionally, women who ran three circles around this church were destined for a "happy and successful" marriage. When we approached, a group of young girls, about six years old, were running around the church followed by three more who looked a bit older than myself. So, naturally, when a guarantee like that is thrown my way, I could not resist. Along with the rest of the girls in my group, we ran around the church three times. And the boys, true to form, narrated the run as if it was a race and cheered us all on. I am surprised they didn't put bets on it. Anyway, it's nice to know I have helped my future along a little.
Our visit to Novgorod yesterday was quite eyeopening. The bus ride completely removed us from Petersburg. Inside the city, it is hard to imagine how dismal the state of the country really is. But outside, living conditions plummeted. The main road was lined with half-standing houses and junk yards. The difference between city life and country life is indisputable. It was hard to relate, as we sped past these villages in the safety of our bus.
When we finally arrived in Novgorod, it was not really what I was expecting. First of all, it is one of the largest cities in Western Russia. I was expecting a somewhat smaller version of Tallin, but what I got was s smaller version of St. Petersburg. We saw the Kremlin in Novgorod which houses the oldest church in Russia. It was built during the 11th century and has been added to and remodeled many times since then. Inside the church were original works of art and sculptures. One original piece is that of the virgin Mary. As legend would have it, when Novgorod was attacked by a neighboring city in its early history, one of the attackers' arrows hit the painting just above the eye. The painting then began to weep and Novgorod rallied and won the battle. This has been preserved in a glass case and to this day, one can still see the sight the arrow damaged the eye.
What I found most interesting about the trip however, was the open-air museum just outside the city. During WWII, Novgorod was severely damaged. Novgorod was, and still is famous for wooden handicrafts. This applied to their houses as well. So after the war, the city gathered many original wooden homes of Russian peasants and moved them to this open air exhibit. The houses were absolutely beautiful, as were the numerous churches and other building that made up this quasi-town.
We even happened to stumble upon a wedding taking place in the village and stayed to watch the traditional Russian wedding. When I say this I mean culturally traditional, not Russian Orthodox. I can't say I knew what was going on but it included a whip, a blindfold and and some vodka. You can draw your own conclusions.
I will post a few pictures of the houses. They really are spectacular piece of architecture, especially considering the were built in the 18th century.
Exam season has now come to Russia. I thought I could escape it half way around the world, but no. I really have learned so much about Russia just being here. I thought I knew a sufficient amount before I came, but I was completely mistaken. Living here is the only way to learn the rules of Russia.
For instance, when you have the opportunity to budge someone in line at the grocery store, you do it because everyone behind you will hassel you if you don't. And if you bump into someone, too bad for them. You don't say sorry, they would think you were creepy. And this is probably the only place where when going for a run at three o'clock on a Monday afternoon you are going to have to be weary of running into drunks. It really is a strange, strange world. I just hope I don't shove too many old ladies at home, before I break my Russian habits.
Peace.
Sunday, April 25, 2010
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